New York, New York
Imagine if New York City didn’t have clean tap water. Those folks selling bottled water on the street corner would make a killing.
Cows have lots of stomachs. You would too if you ate grass all day. One of those stomachs is actually a rumen, a special digestive organ that allows them to regurgitate and remasticate their food. For this reason, cows and animals like them are called ruminants. Sheep, deer, and even giraffes all swallow their food, only to spit it back up out of their special rumen stomachs to be chewed again. They can chew and swallow the same food 50-70 times before it passes to the next stomach for more traditional digestion (ruminantdigestivesystem.com). In doing this, the animals break down the fiber of their rough food sources with mechanical and chemical digestion. Once the fibers in grass or leaves are broken down, they will ferment in the rumen with the help of a diverse microbial population that make more biologically useful compounds which the animals can use as energy. In this process, the animal creates volatile fatty acids for energy and burps out the by-product gases produced during fermentation (ruminantdigestivesystem.com). Unexpectedly, this process is remarkably similar to the earliest human efforts to make booze out of complex starches.
These animals chew to survive and rely on fermentation to produce their energy. If we tweak this process slightly, we arrive at some of the earliest human forays into fermenting complex starches as well. We chewed to brew. In the human context, the rumen organ becomes an earthen vat, the microbial population is airborne yeast, and the end product is alcohol. Humans chewed (some still do) cereals and other starches repetitively and spit them into communal vats where salivary amylase could perform saccharification and thus enable fermentation to occur. Starches must be broken down into simple sugars for yeast to digest them into alcohol and carbon dioxide. It just so happens that our saliva can make that happen.
In Brazil, traditional beverages known generally as cauim (pronounced kawi) are made from a wide range of source materials including cassava, pumpkin, cotton seeds, and corn (Ramos). The drink is a nutritional staple and is typically consumed in a non-alcoholic form. During harvest season, a time of celebration, the drink is fermented. Women oversee this process and stimulate the fermentation by providing the source yeast and bacteria. They do this by chewing sweet potato and spitting the pulp into the boiled vat of non-alcoholic cauim (Ramos). The mixture is fermented in an open vat for 1-2 days. The chewing provides the microculture or yeast and bacteria necessary to trigger this fermentation and help break down complex molecules into simple sugars.
On the other side of the world, Japanese have been making kuchikamizake since ancient times. This rice wine is the ancestor of today’s sake. Translated as “mouth-chewed sake,” it is traditionally made from rice chewed by young, virginal women. Allegedly, the microbial population of younger people’s mouths is more conducive to a tasty final product (Vice). It was not until later that the Japanese found lactic acid bacteria could facilitate the saccharification process more efficiently than female saliva could. The young Japanese women who chew this rice are no different from the Tapirapé of Brazil. The complex starches in rice or cassava need salivary amylase to transform them into simple sugars that yeast can digest. The end result in either case is alcohol.
Bruman, Henry J., and Peter T. Furst. Alcohol in Ancient Mexico. Univ. of Utah Pr., 2001.
Cherrington, Ernest H. Standard Encyclopedia of the Alcohol Problem. Westerville, OH, American Issue Publishing Company, 1925-1927, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001743985. Accessed on 5/19/2020.
McNamee, Gregory. Tortillas Tiswin & T-Bones: A Food History of the Southwest. University of New Mexico Press, 2017.
Nile, Shivraj Hariram. “The Nutritional, Biochemical and Health Effects of Makgeolli – a Traditional Korean Fermented Cereal Beverage.” Journal of the Institute of Brewing, vol. 121, no. 4, 2015, pp. 457–463., doi:10.1002/jib.264.
Ramos, Cíntia Lacerda, et al. “Determination of Dynamic Characteristics of Microbiota in a Fermented Beverage Produced by Brazilian Amerindians Using Culture-Dependent and Culture-Independent Methods.” International Journal of Food Microbiology, vol. 140, no. 2-3, 2010, pp. 225–231., doi:10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2010.03.029.
“Rumen Fermentation.” Rumen Microorganisms, 15 June 2017,
ruminantdigestivesystem.com/rumen-environment/rumen-fermentation/.
“Stanford University Students Try Their Hand at Making Beer Using an Ancient Chinese Recipe.” Study International, 8 Feb. 2017, www.studyinternational.com/news/stanford-university-students-try-their-hand-at-making-beer-using-an-ancient-chinese-recipe/.
“Why Sake Used to Be Made with the Spit of Japanese Virgins.” VICE, www.vice.com/en/article/vvkz8a/why-sake-used-to-be-made-with-the-spit-of-japanese-virgins.
Imagine if New York City didn’t have clean tap water. Those folks selling bottled water on the street corner would make a killing.
Iliyaas Muhammad served in the Peace Corps in Mali where he learned about ginger beverages. When he returned to Philadelphia, he and his wife began selling the ginger infused drinks within their community. Now, Really Reel Ginger is a part of Philadelphia’s bustling Reading Terminal Market where they offer a healthy alternative to soda.
A review of cook books and culinary histories in Savannah and Charleston reveals a variety of herbal teas, complex punches, and foraged fermentable. While sweet tea appears in these texts, it seems that the drinks of the Low Country past were far more colorful.
One of the worst chemical spills in US history tainted Charleston’s water supply in 2014.
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